Is the charred, smoky taste of food cooked in tandoor ovens under threat?
Charcoal tandoors could become an increasing rarity, at least in Mumbai that is. In July, it became the latest city in India to impose a ban on charcoal tandoors, to encourage the use of greener fuels and promote cleaner air. The Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation, or the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai, the governing civic body of Mumbai, had issued notices to a number of restaurants over the last few months, asking those who use traditional charcoal tandoors to switch to electrical appliances by July 8th, with the threat of penalties or revoked licences for those who fail to comply.
Mumbai’s move follows a similar initiative taken in Delhi back in 2023; however in India’s capital, while the use of coals and other fuels is restricted in certain areas, wood and bamboo charcoal is an approved fuel for tandoors and grills in hotels, restaurants and dhabas.
Taking the tandoor taste away
Could a similar threat apply to clay or gas-fuelled ovens in the UK? A report released earlier this year from the Committee on Climate Change (CCC), which advises the UK government on emissions targets and reports to Parliament on progress in reducing greenhouse gas emissions and preparing for the impacts of climate change, to reach net zero targets by 2050, has recommended that gas hobs should be ‘phased out’ in the UK.
Recent reports in the media meanwhile have suggested that curry houses – and their tandoor cooking techniques could be under threat if such a phasing out of gas hobs took place. The government however says that any suggestion that clay ovens will be banned are false.
A government spokesperson said: “Curry houses can continue to use clay ovens under our plans. We are making the UK a clean energy superpower to get off the rollercoaster of fossil fuel markets controlled by dictators and replace that with clean homegrown power we control. We will also reform business rates to level the playing field on our high streets, recognising small local businesses are the thriving hubs of prosperous, vibrant British communities.”
Michelin-recognised chef Dominic Chapman, owner and executive chef at Restaurant Dominic Chapman in Henley-on-Thames, who has also been involved in previous Curry Life Food Festivals, says that while the industry is starting to adopt more sustainable, green energy options, he doesn’t anticipate changes to gas-fuelled cooking for some time.
“People are trying really hard to go as sustainable as possible but I don’t see gas being banned just yet – we’re so used to cooking with it,” he said. “It seems we may not have to worry for the present time, but if there is a ban or something similar, the industry is resourceful. It will find a way to make it work without compromising on taste or cooking techniques.”
It’s worth noting too that any changes to gas/clay ovens wouldn’t just affect Indian/tandoor cuisine – but also many other ethnic cuisines too, such as Middle Eastern, as Chad Rahman, owner and executive chef at Chez Mumtaj restaurant points out.
“We live in a multicultural society and you cannot single out one type of cuisine for using clay ovens – plenty of cuisines do,” he says. “Moreover, curry and Indian food is an integral part of people’s food choices in the UK – they dine out or get takeaways on a regular basis, a curry is almost a way of life and it’s one of the UK’s most popular cuisines.”
A spokesperson for UKHospitality, the trade body for hospitality in the UK said: “Our understanding is that the government’s net zero strategy won’t ban the use of gas ovens, so curry houses or other restaurants that use clay or gas ovens would be fine to continue doing so. We are aware that, more broadly, some restaurants are switching from gas to electric to become more efficient but clearly this will not be appropriate for venues where they use a gas or clay oven.”
Chapman says induction ovens, which are generally considered more emission-friendly than gas, could be a viable option but acknowledges that Indian food normally cooked in a tandoor oven – such as naans, roti or tandoor chicken for example, would not have the same taste or texture if cooked this way.
“[The food] wouldn’t have the same look or taste if cooked in an induction oven, so that’s not a viable alternative, as such,” he says. “But there could be a more efficient way to continue using gas.”
Rahman concurs and says while you can cook naan bread in a combi oven, it would ‘never have the same authentic taste’ as when cooked in a tandoor.
“Of course you can cook the food this way – combi ovens are great, but it will lose the smoky, charred flavour you get from coals or charcoal – it absolutely affects the taste,” says Rahman. “It’s all about the flavour and texture and it’s vitally important that we preserve these cooking techniques. It’s the same concept as when you have barbecue food – you want that charred flavour, otherwise it’s not a barbecue.”
Rahman believes education can play a part too, and that training could help people to use gas ovens in a more efficient way. This could help to reduce emissions and pave the way towards cleaner fuel without compromising on taste or forsaking traditional cooking methods.
