Above and Beyond
Curry Legend Bashir Islam has been an inspiration to the curry industry for many years, with an approach based on mutual respect
Restaurateur Bashir Islam’s motto is simple: ‘promise less and give more’. His philosophy in life is to give people more than they envisage, to over-deliver and to exceed expectations across all areas of the business, from the kitchen, to the service to the front of house.
We’re meeting at one of Islam’s three restaurants (although over the years, Islam has been involved in plenty more). The Spice Merchant is located in the historic area of Beaconsfield Old Town in Buckinghamshire, with the other two (also with the same name) in Henley-on-Thames and Cookham, and describes itself as serving ‘contemporary Indian cuisine’. On the menu, it says, you’ll find ‘traditional Indian pot dishes, such as Bhuna and Jalfrezi as well as a selection of more modern and creative dishes’. The decor reflects this approach too, with wooden floors, large mirrors and opulent lighting.
Bashir Islam came to the UK in 1976, working in a succession of Indian restaurants in various locations, starting in Palmers Green, moving on to Crystal Palace, then Leyton and also Portsmouth. He then completed stints at restaurants in Uxbridge and Gants Hill, before settling in Beaconsfield. His first restaurant – Tropical Curry, was opened in 1980 in the modern part of the town and, he recalls, was the first such Indian restaurant in the area. In 1983, he opened his flagship restaurant, The Cookham Tandoori, in partnership with his brother (now called The Spice Merchant Cookham) and then in 1994 the one where we are sitting today. The Henley restaurant opened in 2005.
Many chefs cut their teeth at the Cookham restaurant, before embarking on their own hospitality ventures and founding successful businesses of their own. Bashir has also helped to fund many of these, providing start-up capital (rather than going into partnership) and being an inspiration for many in the curry industry,
He shies away from being called an inspiration to the industry and a business mentor, however and doesn’t believe he has done anything too differently from anyone else. He says his approach is down to a simple premise: if you treat people well, they will respect you and stay with you. And similarly, he says, do not work for someone who doesn’t respect you and always ensure you take pride in your work.
“I never forgot who I am, and where I came from and that is why a lot of people lose their way,” he says. “You must not forget who you are or your identity – once you lose this you have nothing.”
A family approach
Bashir likes to put the emphasis on creating a family environment at his restaurants, where everyone is welcome, whatever their role.
“When you work here with me it’s like a family because I worked for others before and have been treated very badly,” he says. “I thought this was not right – people who work for me, this is like their home, they should feel comfortable. If people need help, I want to be there for them. Indian restaurants do not do things by the book – everyone is our friend, we are like one big family. Everyone is capable of achieving anything and we try to give people what they want.”
Testament to this is the fact that many of his former staff speak very highly of Bashir, and remember him for the level of training he offered – not just with regards to the food business but around customer service too. As one employee explained while we were there, his success is down to what Bashir has taught him. Bashir too says he has not come across a single person yet who has previously worked for him and doesn’t want to talk to him again.
“Most of my staff started with little or no experience, I trained them from zero and occasionally brought some in from other restaurants,” he says. “Anyone who works with me knows what is expected of them; it’s an amazing cultural experience working in a restaurant. As an owner I can provide nice lighting and supply the food, but cooking and serving dishes is all down to the team. So if you book for dinner and the person serving you is not properly dressed or does not have a clean appearance, you are not going to eat there.”
A people business
Bashir Islam is also astute, being able to spot the right people to work with and bringing out the best in them. He acknowledges that one of the biggest challenges throughout his time in the industry has been finding the right staff. While he might have many ideas that have proved successful, he says you can make so much more of these, and the prospects are much more exciting, if you have the right staff by your side.
He’s also spotted gaps in the marketplace, and as he puts it, ‘been able to seize an opportunity.” The Spice Merchant for example has its own online delivery system, called Feast Online.
“I see things a good many years before others,” he says. “If you look at the likes of Just Eat, I created Feast Online. I could see that many Indian restaurants were proving to be very popular but we needed to get quality food delivered to people’s doors. I invested money in establishing this online food delivery system for my restaurants.”
Enjoy what you do
While not a trained chef, Bashir also enjoys creating dishes, and has put his own stamp on the menu at The Spice Merchant, including a take on Chicken Tikka Masala, with lots of spices to give the dish a bit of a kick.
“I am not a chef and have never been one but I have a very good understanding of food,” he says. “I use top-quality products – I like going to markets and seeing fresh produce, I can’t compromise on quality. And you also need to understand spices and why you are putting a particular one into this curry over that one. If you don’t enjoy it, it’s quite simple – don’t do it.”
At the age of 65, Bashir acknowledges that he is close to retirement (neither of his three children are interested in taking on the family business) but that hasn’t stopped him thinking about new ventures – he plans to open a fish and chips shop in Henley.
“I don’t know how it will work, I am too old to do this job,” he reflects. “The only thing I say to people who are thinking of opening a business is to make sure you give everything you have within yourself. Never undermine your competitors, respect them. And if you don’t know something, study what is already out there, but always think about how you can do it better. Learning never finishes. Don’t do something for the sake of it. If you are not happy with something don’t sell it, if you can only serve 10 people tonight then don’t serve 12. You might lose two customers today but the other ten will come back again.”
Spice Merchant Cookham, High St, Cookham, Maidenhead SL6 9SL, Phone: 01628 52258
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Beat Type 2 Diabetes with this special remedy: Spicy Curry
A lot of us cannot help but indulge in all the sweetness that is on offer nowadays, although some may be in the form of unhealthy foods. Linked to poor diet and lack of exercise, diabetes is one of the most prevalent lifestyle diseases, affecting around 3.7 million people in the UK. Over-indulgence on cakes and other sweet treats over the festive period can raise blood sugar levels.
During winter, Type 2 diabetes symptoms can worsen but a simple dietary change can do wonders. “Curry is a great meal choice for diabetes patients to avoid blood sugar spikes,” reveals Dr Sarah Brewer, CuraLin nutritionist in a report.
“Home-made curry makes a great winter warmer, and curry spices such as cinnamon, fenugreek, chilli and turmeric have beneficial effects on glucose control,” said Dr Brewer. Dr Brewer further explains how stews full of low glycaemic-index vegetables and beans can be very good for the body during such excruciating weather. Adding this to one’s weekly meal plan can avoid blood sugar spikes.
To team up the curry, she also recommends brown or wild rice rather than white rice as the latter shoots up blood sugar levels and it contains less amount of fibre which does not aid in good bowel movement. She also advices to opt for granary-style seeded and brown wholemeal loaves, if one prefers having bread.
Elaborating on spices, Dr Brewer added, “Cinnamon contains the antioxidant polyphenols, which improves insulin sensitivity in diabetes patients, while turmeric improves the release of insulin.”
High blood sugar can be controlled by consumption of more low glycaemic index vegetables, which includes most fruits and vegetables, milk, and some wholegrain cereals and bread.
In a report, the NHS recommends eating at least five portions of fruits and vegetables every day. Diabetes patients are more at risk of some deadly complications – including heart disease and stroke – so managing their blood sugar levels is crucial.
While most people over the age of 40 fall the under the risk of becoming diabetic, other common symptoms that can be noted are unexplained weight loss, passing more urine than every day, or having cuts or wounds that take longer to heal than normal.
Data shows South Asian children more likely to be obese In a drive to fight severe obesity, which has reached an all-time high amongst 10
and 11-year-olds, Change4Life has started a campaign “Make a swap when you next shop” to create awareness and encourage parents to halve their children’s sugar intake from some everyday food and drinks.
Data shows Bangladeshi, Pakistani and Indian children aged 10 and 11 years old were the most likely to be overweight or obese. According to Public Health England (PHE), children have already exceeded the maximum recommended sugar intake for an 18-year old by the time they reach their tenth birthday,
The campaign, which was launched to support South Asian families to cut back on sugar and to help tackle growing rates of childhood obesity, is urging parents to buy products such as yoghurts, drinks and breakfast cereals by half – while giving them healthier alternatives of the foods and drinks they enjoy.
Adopting these dietary changes every day could remove around 2,500 sugar cubes per year from a child’s daily intake, but swapping chocolate, puddings, sweets, cakes and pastries with healthier options such as malt loaf, sugar-free jellies, lower-sugar custards and rice puddings would reduce risks further.
Orla Hugueniot, Campaigns Nutritionist at PHE, said, “Children are consuming too much sugar, but parents can take action now to prevent this building up over the years.”
“Overweight or obese children are more likely to be overweight or obese as adults, increasing their risk of heart disease and some cancers, while more people than ever are developing Type 2 diabetes. Overweight or obese children are more likely to be bullied and have low self-esteem. Excess sugar can also lead to painful tooth decay,” added Orla.
Nutritionist Azmina Govindji, said, “It’s important we as a community understand the sugar content in popular cultural foods and make changes to address the problem of childhood obesity. With busy lives and families to support, Change4Life is offering a straightforward solution – by making simple swaps each day, children can have healthier versions of everyday foods and drinks, while significantly reducing their sugar intake.”
“Grandparents can play a significant role in their grandchildren’s diet, and we recognise that change has to come from the whole family and not just parents. That’s why the Change4Life campaign will be taking this message to the heart of the community, including places of worship, to encourage everyone to support healthier choices.”
Chef and author Anjula Devi who is passionate about creating balanced and nutritious Indian meals and is supporting the campaign said: “Most South Asian households will have a blend of western and cultural foods in their homes which can lead to a high consumption of sugary products.”
“When I cook, I try to reduce the amount of sugar and salt content in my cooking and make swaps using low fat/sugar products where I can so we can enjoy the best of both worlds,” added Anjula.
Families are encouraged to look for the Change4Life ‘Good Choice’ badge in shops, download the free Food Scanner app or search Change4Life to help them find lower sugar options.
HEALTHY SWAPS
• A sugary juice drink for a no-added sugar juice drink, to cut back from 2 cubes to half a cube
• A higher-sugar breakfast cereal (e.g. a frosted or chocolate cereal) for a lower sugar cereal, to cut back from 3 cubes to half a cube per bowl
• A higher-sugar yoghurt (e.g. split-pot) for a lower sugar one, to halve their sugar intake from 6 cubes of sugar to 3
Nutritionists believe ‘healthy’ food at supermarkets misleading
Looking for healthy food options in supermarkets? Watch out. While supermarkets pledge their commitment towards “promoting healthy eating”, findings from nutritionists and researchers suggest something else.
According to a BBC Channel 5 investigation, products available in leading supermarkets labelled as ‘healthy’ food, contain saturated fats and high salt level, which can be detrimental to health. The report quoted the British Dietetic Association saying stores including Tesco, Morrisons and Sainsbury’s were being “unhelpful” and “confusing” customers.
Researchers also found that despite being labelled “ready to eat” or “washed”, bags of cut leaves are a breeding ground for salmonella – and prepared salad is now the second-biggest cause of food poisoning in the UK.
Similarly, gluten-free breads are packed with a cocktail of additives and chemicals, including some used in the make-up and oil drilling industry, food campaigners claimed.
In another revelation, fruits available all year round, which look fine for consumption may have been harvested and taken for long-term storage into chilled warehouses filled with a mixture of gases to stop ripening.
The Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH) called for an independent supermarket regulator. “Supermarkets should be transparent about how they classify foods, and provide clear information about products,” the RSPH reportedly said.
“There must be incentives and penalties for presenting clear and accurate information. Perhaps there is potential to have an independent supermarket regulator. It is important that the good work done so far on labelling is not undermined,” it added.
A British Dietetic Association (BDA) spokesperson said supermarkets had a “duty of care” to their customers. “It is unhelpful and confusing to the consumer, and supermarkets should avoid doing this,” they added.
“They should be promoting and educating people to buy foods that actually are healthy – not just marketed as being so.”
Eating more rice could help fight obesity
Eating rice could help prevent obesity, a Japanese study has found. According to a Bloomberg report, researchers from the Doshisha Women’s College of Liberal Arts in Kyoto said that people following a Japanese or Asian-style diet based on rice were “less likely to be obese” than those living in countries where the consumption of rice is low.
The researchers added that even a modest increase of 50 grams of rice per day could help to reduce the worldwide prevalence of obesity by one per cent — from 650 million adults to 643.5 million adults.
They noted that low-carbohydrate diets limiting rice are a popular weight-loss strategy in developed countries, but the effect of rice on obesity was unclear.
The study examined rice consumption — in terms of grams per day per person — and calorie intake in 136 countries, as well as data on body mass index (BMI).
In the U.K., people were found to consume just 19 grams of rice a day, below dozens of other countries including Canada, Spain and the U.S.
“The observed associations suggest that the obesity rate is low in countries that eat rice as a staple food,” said Professor Tomoko Imai, who led the study.
Giving possible reasons why rice can help, Prof Imai said rice was low in fat, adding: “It’s possible that the fibre, nutrients and plant compounds found in whole grains may increase feelings of fullness and prevent overeating.”
“Given the rising levels of obesity worldwide, eating more rice should be recommended to protect against obesity even in western countries,” Prof Imai was quoted as saying.
The authors of the study concluded: “The prevalence of obesity was significantly lower in the countries with higher rice supply even after controlling for lifestyle and socioeconomic indicators.”
Tam Fry, chairman of the U.K.’s National Obesity Forum, said: “We have known for centuries that Far Eastern populations tend to be slimmer than in the West because rice is a staple food, but few obesity specialists may have appreciated why. This novel research is the first to hypothesize that we could nail obesity by eating a modest amount more.” The study was presented at the European Congress on Obesity in Glasgow.
Cabbage helps cut risk of cancer
Eating vegetables like cabbage, broccoli and kale can help reduce the risk of bowel cancer, a new study has claimed.
Researchers from Francis Crick Institute found that anti-cancer chemicals helps reduce inflammation of the gut and colon, thereby decreasing chances of colon cancer.
The study, which was published in a medical journal Immunity, explained how cruciferous vegetables when consumed generate indole-3-carbinol (I3C), which has high health benefits.
They studied mice who had a diet rich in green vegetables alongside mice that did not. The rodents that were fed a rich diet developed neither inflammation nor cancer whereas those without showed signs of gut cells dividing uncontrollably.
“Even when the mice started developing tumours and we switched them to the appropriate diet, it halted tumour progression,” Dr Gitta Stockinger, from the research team, told the BBC.
Dr Stockinger added, “We often think of colon cancer as a disease promoted by a Western diet rich in fat and poor in vegetable content, and our results suggest a mechanism behind this observation.”
“Many vegetables produce chemicals that keep AhR stimulated in the gut. We found that AhR-promoting chemicals in the diet can correct defects caused by insufficient AhR stimulation.
‘This can restore cell differentiation, offering resistance to intestinal infections and preventing colon cancer.”
Dr Stockinger also believes the findings have become a “cause for optimism” and adopting a diet with plenty of vegetables will mitigate the risk of cancer.
She told the BBC: “A lot of dietary advice we’re getting changes periodically – it is very confusing and not clear cut what the causes and consequences are. Just telling me it’s good for me without a reason will not make me eat it. With this study, we have the molecular mechanisms about how this system works.”
She also added a word of caution, saying, “Make sure they’re not overcooked, no soggy broccoli.”
It maybe noted that signs of bowel cancer include persistent blood in the stools, changes in bowel habits, such as going to the toilet more often and stomach pain, bloating or discomfort.
Prof Tim Key of Cancer Research UK said there were plenty of reasons to eat more vegetables. “This study in mice suggests that it’s not just the fibre contained in vegetables like broccoli and cabbage that help reduce the risk of bowel cancer, but also molecules found in these vegetables too.”
“Further studies will help find out whether the molecules in these vegetables have the same effect in people, but in the meantime there are already plenty of good reasons to eat more vegetables.”
Curry ingredients may provide the key to improving your memory
Curcurmin, which gives turmeric its vibrant yellow colour may have several health benefits, according to new medical research.
There have been suggestions that the chemical has anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and could also help improve memory.
Scientists at California University in Los Angeles have been studying the effects of curcurmin on people with age-related memory loss. The results of the research were published in the American Journal of Geriatric Psychiatry.
“Exactly how curcumin exerts its effects is not certain, but it may be due to its ability to reduce brain inflammation, which has been linked to both Alzheimer’s disease and major depression,” said Dr. Gary Small, study author and the director of geriatric psychiatry at UCLA’s Longevity Centre.
There are much lower rates of Alzheimer’s disease in India, where curcurmin – a key ingredient of turmeric – is consumed in large quantities. It was also found that cognitive performances in the elderly was better.
Those who carried out the study found that those in the test group who took curcumin noted an improvement in mood and memory.
The research showed that memory tests with participants who took curcumin improved by around 28 per cent over the course of the study. Their overall disposition also improved, according to scientists.
A second study is planned by the University of California to find out more about the curry ingredient’s properties, with a larger number of people taking part in the research.
A key area of exploration is whether curcumin works significantly better for different age groups, and particularly with those having a genetic risk of dementia, or as a possible treatment for people suffering with depression.
“These results suggest that taking this relatively safe form of curcumin could provide meaningful cognitive benefits over the years,” Dr Small said.
A study at Baylor University Medical Center in Dallas researchers used a combination of curcumin and boswellia, better known as frankincense. These compounds have been used for centuries in Indian Ayurvedic medicine as an anti-inflammatory.
“We’ve known for a while that curcumin and boswellia are powerful anti-inflammatories and have potent anti-cancer properties,” says study author Ajay Goel, Director of Epigenetics, Cancer Prevention, and Geonomics at Baylor. “They are both powerful natural medicines, and both have the ability to reduce inflammation,” he told Newsmax Health.
Annual sales of curcumin have increased since 2012, due to an increase in its popularity as an alternative health remedy. It is present in skincare products that are marketed as containing natural ingredients or dyes, especially in Asia. The largest market is in North America, where sales exceeded US$20 million.
The US government has supported $150 million in research into curcumin through the National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health.
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A LITTLE LESS SALT
A pinch of salt can make a dish delicious; double the dose and it ruins the taste. More importantly, excessive salt can lead to several health problems. Though the human body needs this mineral for proper functioning, it should be consumed in moderation.
According to a World Health Organisation report, consumption of salt between 1,500 and 2,400 milligrams per day is recommended for adults. However, if one has or is at risk for high blood pressure, only up to1,500 milligrams is advised.
The Institute of Medicine’s Food and Nutrition Board suggests that both male and female teens between 14 and 18 years old should have only about 1,500 milligrams of sodium each day. Lifestyle modification should happen from an early age as there is no particular age for non-communicable diseases (NCDs) like hypertension.
Excess usage of salt can create several health hazards, hypertension being the most prominent. Others like abnormal heart development, osteoporosis, dehydration, swelling and digestive diseases have detrimental effects on the body.
Hypertension:
High blood pressure can trigger life threatening emergencies like strokes and heart attacks. Studies indicate that reducing sodium intake can lower blood pressure by 25 per cent. According to the Harvard School of Public Health, high intake of salt can cause 23 per cent increased incidence of stroke and 14 per cent rise in the incidence of heart disease.
Abnormal heart development:
A habit of eating salty food heightens the risk of non-blood pressure related heart diseases as well. The heart has to work much harder to provide proper circulation, when consumption of salt is more. This over a period of time results in an abnormally large heart with thinner heart valves. An enlarged heart is significantly weaker and can lead to symptoms like chest pains, breathlessness and chronic fatigue.
Osteoporosis:
Sodium inhibits the body’s absorption and utilization of calcium, leading to a loss of bone mass and increased porousness of bones. Elderly people, post-menopausal women and diabetics, who are already at high risk of osteoporosis, should be particularly careful about salt intake.
Dehydration and swelling: Excessive sodium in the blood draws water out of the cells and into the tissues. Feeling thirsty is a direct response after having salty food. Dehydrated cells signal the brain for water. Having fluid filled tissue makes one look bloated and swollen. These symptoms are especially severe in the lower parts of the body. Reducing salt intake is an effective way of preventing swollen feet, ankles and calves.
Digestive diseases: Sodium regulates the acid-base balance of blood and body fluids. Too much salt can yield acid reflux, cause heart burn and long-term damage to the upper digestive tract. Studies indicate that habitual intake of salty foods is a strong risk factor for duodenal and gastric ulcers and cancers.
There are ways to cut down salt consumption. One should opt for low-salt products and check ingredient labels to avoid products containing baking soda, sodium nitrate, sodium citrate and sodium benzoate. Salt free herbs and spices are a good substitute. At times, potassium is prescribed instead of sodium by doctors. Also, several brands these days highlight the presence of less sodium in their table salt.
Frozen, processed and fast-foods that we consume daily have high salt content, due which these should be used minimally. It is beneficial to choose fresh fruits and vegetables over processed ones and is advisable to rinse canned vegetables and fruits before consumption. A high intake of fruits and vegetables are protective dietary changes for a healthy life.
One should be cautious while picking products. A bottle of jam which maybe high in sugar content, also has salt in it in the form of preservatives which often go unnoticed. Consumption of plenty of water is a solution which is beneficial for the body and a natural cure for most NCDs.
Basil, garlic powder, onion powder and curry powder form excellent alternatives for salt which enhance food flavours.
Basil: Considered an important culinary herb, it is now commonly used fresh in cooked recipes. Alternatively, it can be chopped into homemade pasta sauces or tossed in with olive oil for healthy options as it has a sharp yet slightly sweet taste.
Garlic powder:
Enhances food flavours while offering other health benefits at the same time. When a bulb of garlic is roasted with a little bit of olive oil it goes from bitter in its raw form to a delightful sweetness. Using roasted garlic makes for a natural sodium source treat.
Onion powder:
A great salt alternative, but should be used sparingly due to its pungent flavour and strong taste.
Curry powder:
A rich flavour, which when sprinkled in dishes with vegetables and meat products, enhances the taste, reducing or eliminating salt usage.
One should become more mindful of salt intake in the diet, engage in regular physical activity and have a high intake of fruits and vegetables as these are key components of a healthy lifestyle.
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TURNING A PASSION INTO A BUSINESS
Zolsha has been going strong for 15 years and is looking to make the next 15 and more count
Azid Ahmed, or Ash as he prefers to be known, has taken an unusual path to opening his own curry house. No one in his family had former ties to the restaurant industry but over the last 14 years, he has established Zolsha as a destination restaurant, based on his passion for food and service and a willingness to keep on learning. The restaurant is based in Howden near Goole in Yorkshire and regularly attracts positive reviews from diners, who praise its ‘excellent reputation’, ‘varied menu’ and ‘friendly service’.
Ash knew from a relatively early age that working in the restaurant industry was what he wanted to do, despite having little experience.
“When I left school I went into the trade full time – it’s all I’ve ever known. By the time I was 19, I felt I was quite ready to open a business but because I was young people were reluctant to invest in me and my business,” recalls Ahmed. “They never said no but they did say let’s wait and see. My father used to work in the mills but I’ve always been attracted to the catering industry – I like interacting with people and I thrive in busy environments.”
Determination and wanting to follow his passion spurred Ash on – in his words, ‘you know when you enjoy something and there is a reward for it.’ His friends and family rightly had trust and conviction in his ability to run a restaurant, helping him to fund the venture. He opened Zolsha (which means ‘gathering’), in 2009 at the age of 23, on the site of a former pub and spent close to a year on renovations.
“I’m happy to have my place in Howden but I have been approached by others about going into business with them but I have declined,” he says. “I like where I am and continue to give one thousand percent, whereas it would be one hundred percent somewhere else,” he says.
Having started at an early age, Ash has had plenty of experience running all aspects of a restaurant, but his main focus is on the front of the house and ensuring that his many customers – both regulars and new ones are happy.
“We can seat around 65 diners and we like to focus on our customers – we have a lounge where they can have a drink first, so they can make an evening of it,” says Ash. “It’s important to think about the customers and to be able to see them – this is why we don’t offer a delivery service. People pick up takeaways directly so we ensure they get the meal in good time and we can do quality control.”
And Ash is always keen to learn on the job, particularly with his chef, looking at different cooking techniques and dishes. “I am always tweaking things and open to suggestions. It’s best for my business when I have a passion, which starts from when the customers arrive, to see what we can do with food, in terms of presentation and trying different spices, to their enjoyment of the dish,” he says. “Even in my spare time, I look at a lot of social media to discover what different chefs are cooking and creating.”
Changing times
Ash is not someone to rest on their laurels – he believes in moving with the times and recognises that customers do not always want ‘same old, same old.’
“It’s good to introduce change – not just with the curries but with the surroundings too – we have done refurbishments over the last few years and now have quite a contemporary look, it’s about bigger and better,” he says. “ We also apply the same methodology to our menu and change this when we can, and we also test different dishes with our customers. They always give us tips and advice that we can apply to our new menu. We have a fantastic chef who is also a business partner; chef Shelim Uddin looks after our kitchen team.
The presentation of dishes is all important too. Even with his near-15 years in business – and having started a long time before the likes of Instagram, X (formerly Twitter) and TikTok took off, Ash is keenly aware of the power of social media.
“Presentation is all-important – when people eat they want to take pictures for Instagram, so the way the food looks is a big factor,” he says. “Many restaurants need to work on this, some are still serving and presenting food in the same way as when they first opened. I am willing to try different things but I also think it is important to move with the times. There is no harm in doing something new and knowing that it either works or does not work.”
Curry closures
Ash is certainly keen on taking risks but also describes himself as an ‘over thinker’ – he likes to be 100% sure of something before he tries it. One thing he is no doubt about is the threat of closures hanging over the curry house industry, due to the difficulties in recruiting staff, the increasing cost of overheads such as electricity and the higher price of ingredients.
“I’ve looked at the number of places that have closed down and I know plenty of people in the industry who are thinking of selling up – the time and effort we put in is often now not enough,” he says. “However, I’ve been in this industry for nearly 15 years and I intend to stay at least another 15 years if not more.”
One of the areas crucial to Zolsha’s success is its menu – while the restaurant originally had a big menu, Ash said he soon realised it was better to narrow this down, focusing on making the best dishes even better – one he is especially proud of are those featuring king prawns.
“We serve really big king prawns – they are not the typical ones you might have in a curry,” he says. “We love to serve quality produce and show our diners that Indian cuisine can vary so much depending on different regions.”
Making a difference
Given his time again, what would Ash do differently with Zolsha? Thankfully, there isn’t a lot he would change but he would have been a bit more experimental with the menu.
“If I could go back five, six or seven years, I would have invited different chefs from other regions to come and cook at Zolsha – just for a couple of days,” he says. “When you see other chefs from different parts of the UK, you realise that everyone has an alternative way of doing things – it might not necessarily be a better way, but it gives you ideas. A new chef can give a lot of advice and a new perspective.”
In the current climate, Ash is focusing on making his business the best it can be, and making sure his passion continues for years to come.
Zolsha
4 Bridgegate
Howden
Goole DN14 7AB
A MODERN FAMILY BUSINESS
Bombay restaurant is run by a father and daughter team and there are ambitious plans for the future
Bombay Tandoori Restaurant in Leamington Spa is one of the longest-serving Indian restaurants in the town, having first opened its doors back in 1980. Despite the number of years it has been in business, it’s not your typical, traditional curry house however, as it’s currently managed by a woman – Iftahara Nisa Ahmed.
Moreover, as Iftahara says, the fact that she wears a hijab and works in a restaurant that serves alcohol, makes a different situation even more unusual. She only joined the business just under six years ago (it was originally opened by her uncle and then run by other family members), and she now works alongside her father, who is the restaurant chef.
Girl power
“In the beginning, my dad was a bit hesitant, because I’m the first woman in my entire family from the fourth generation to ever work in a restaurant,” explains Iftahara. “My dad has quite a modern outlook though – he said I could try working there for two days a week and it will be fun, and I’m still here nearly six years later.”
Iftahara believes there should be more women working in the industry – Bombay employs three other women – one in the kitchen and two in front of house, and Iftahara says customers are often commenting on how it’s refreshing to see women working in an Indian restaurant.
“People like it – Indian restaurants [in the UK] have been around for so many years and you hardly see any women working in them,” says Iftahara. “We’ve got a traditional restaurant but it also has a progressive, modern outlook and we have quite a few family and friends with restaurants, and their daughters are working there too. I couldn’t actually imagine myself anywhere else – I’m very invested in the business. If you ask my colleagues, they’ll tell you how passionate I am about the restaurant.”
A warm welcome
This passion extends not just to the food, service and smooth running of the restaurant, but to each and every customer. Bombay wants diners to feel welcomed from the moment they walk into the restaurant, as if they are part of one big family.
“We always want them to see a friendly face – our customers say it is like walking into someone’s home,” says Iftahara. “Even when we have new staff joining, we tell them to go and speak to the customers and be friendly. We have so many customers who have been coming in since the 1980s.”
Restaurant staff are very knowledgeable when it comes to the regulars’ food and drink orders, to the point that they enjoy a bit of conversation before serving customers’ favourite dishes.
“Knowing the customer’s drinks order or whether they want papadums – it’s a simple thing really but customers are really happy and receptive that we’ve remembered these details,” adds Iftahara. “Our client base is so loyal that they help to spread our name around and strengthen our reputation. We’ve had diners from Cambridge and Oxford who tell us the restaurant has been recommended to them.”
In an industry that is facing some of its toughest challenges yet, with increased costs having led to many closures in the curry house sector, it’s these customers who keep Iftahara motivated day in and day out.
“The loyal diners and the fact that we are busy on Fridays and Saturdays – this is when all the adrenaline kicks in – we’ve also got a great team,” she acknowledges. “Without our customers, we wouldn’t have the business we have today. It’s because of them that we are still here 45 years later.”
Family support
Much of Bombay’s success is also down to Iftahara’s father – the restaurant went through some tough times in 2016, when her father decided to take over the running of the business.
“Everyone is amazed at where he has taken the business in the last six years,” says Iftahara. “Before 2016, Bombay had reached a low point, it was starting to lose business. There is around a 10-year age gap between my uncle and my father and he came to the restaurant with an open mind and fresh ideas.”
As an added bonus, Iftahara’s father is also a decorator and painter, which enabled him to give the restaurant a much-needed makeover. In fact, he still does a refresh every few months, keenly aware of the benefits to the business. Both father and daughter have also made quite a few changes since joining, not all of which have been easy decisions to make.
They tackled the menu – not straight away however, but gradually, reducing the number of dishes, refining existing ones and adding new ones. They continue to revise the menu on a regular basis while retaining the classic dishes that customers love, as Iftahara says, ‘diners will get bored otherwise’.
“Over the last six years, we’ve dealt with a number of issues, such as price increases – when I first started, the menu was quite cheap, now it is more reasonably-priced, but we did lose some customers,” she says. “And there will always be others who still see the prices as expensive, particularly post-Covid and with the continued cost of living crisis.”
While Iftahara does enjoy cooking, she leaves this part of the business to her father, who has been a skilled chef for more than two decades. He actually learnt the trade at Bombay in the 1990s, before moving on to another Indian restaurant, and then returning to Bombay. The restaurant’s signature dishes include Chicken Tikka Akbari, featuring diced chicken tikka with mince meat in a hot scotch bonnet sauce, and Pasmishali Naga Special, chicken tikka prepared in a hot Naga sauce and garnished with potato straws and coriander. Iftahara does take a great interest in how the food tastes and looks, believing that food presentation and flavours are just as important as the cooking side.
Ongoing challenges
“Many of the staff at Indian restaurants are from the same family, and it’s a lot harder to recruit staff now than before,” says Iftahara. “Family members are choosing to go into different sectors, they’re doing graduate jobs – anything but working in a restaurant and attracting them is one of the biggest hurdles we face. My dad has plenty of friends involved in restaurants and they all agree on this – most people seem to want to work from home or have a 9-5 job.”
Many of Bombay’s staff members are relatively new, having been there for between six months to a year, and retaining them is another challenge – Iftahara is all too aware that young people are keen to move onto new things on a regular basis.
For the present time, however, Iftahara has no plans to move on – in fact she is keen to take over the running of the business from her father and expand, with ambitions to open new branches of Bombay in the not too distant future.
Bombay Restaurant
38-40 Regent Street
Leamington Spa
CV32 5EG
www.bombayleamington.co.uk
Curry Life 105
Curry Life is Britain’s No.1 curry magazine, and it is distributed FREE to thousands of Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Sri Lankan, and Nepalese restaurants.
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CURRY LIFE 104
Curry Life is Britain’s No.1 curry magazine, and it is distributed FREE to thousands of Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Sri Lankan, and Nepalese restaurants.
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END OF BRITISH CURRY AWARDS
The British Curry Awards, which have been running for 18 years, will no longer take place, with the Awards rebranded to a new platform called the British Curry Guide.
The decision to end the Awards scheme follows the passing of its founder, Enam Ali MBE, who died in July last year. The British Curry Guide aims to build on the legacy of the Awards, and says it will take a fresh approach to showcasing the best of British Indian cuisine.
A note on the British Curry Guide website said: “We are thrilled to continue the legacy of the British Curry Awards by creating a new chapter from our renowned brand. Our vision is to become the go-to resource for the nation’s diners, providing them with a comprehensive guide that goes beyond awards to offer a thoughtfully produced showcase to help curate a better dining experience, expert recommendations, and insightful content that celebrates the richness and diversity of this beloved cuisine.
“As we bid farewell to the British Curry Awards, we embark on an exciting new chapter with The British Curry Guide. We invite you to join us on this remarkable journey, as we continue to celebrate the passion, creativity, and culinary mastery of British Indian cuisine. Together, let us explore the flavours, traditions, and stories that make this cuisine a true reflection of our cultural heritage and gastronomic delight.”
The British Curry Guide will be ‘the definitive list of the most exceptional curry restaurants in Britain. Its website said: “It is a comprehensive resource that encompasses the rich tapestry of the UK curry industry, providing invaluable guidance, expert recommendations, and a platform for curry enthusiasts to explore, appreciate, and engage with the world of curry.”
The Guide will feature the views of ‘dining inspectors’, comprised of industry professionals with decades of experience, who will follow a meticulous thoughtfully created framework when evaluating the quality of an establishment nominated to enter the guide’.
The British Curry Awards was established by Ali in 2005. The last edition and event took place in November last year.
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Iconic India Club to close
Rita Payne
Tributes and laments have been pouring in from the UK and abroad following confirmation that a much-loved Indian restaurant and hotel in central London is to close. The India Club has fended off previous attempts to shut it down to make way for a glossy new development. The battle has now been lost and many of its loyal supporters are devastated.
Ever since the news broke of the Club’s closure after 70 years there have been daily queues outside with two-hour waits for a table. People are clearly anxious to eat in the restaurant before a beloved part of London’s heritage disappears.
India Club is on the first floor of the Hotel Strand Continental. It is a modest building and easy to miss with only a small sign outside. One enters through a door up a winding staircase to a bar on the first floor and restaurant on the second with meeting rooms and a handful of bedrooms.
Founded in 1951 on The Strand, the India Club was regarded by many Indians residing in the UK as a ‘home away from home’ It was a popular meeting place for leading writers, intellectuals and politicians associated with India’s independence. It is of historical significance for both India and the UK, having been set up by Krishna Menon, India’s first High Commissioner to the UK with Lady Mountbatten and Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru as founding members. They would meet beneath the stained glass windows of the art-deco style bar to discuss their plans for India’s future. Their photos still adorn the walls of the restaurant, bar and meeting rooms. Other well known regulars included the Labour politician Michael Foot, and artist M F Husain who are no longer around to bemoan the closure of their favoured eating place. Renowned figures who are reputed to have dined there over the years include Dadabhai Naoroji, the first British Indian MP, and philosopher Bertrand Russell.
The British-Indian politician and businessman, Lord Karan Bilimoria, said: “I helped to save it 6 years ago and fought very hard, however now the landlords have finally got their way. I used to go to it as boy with my father 50 years ago when he was posted in the UK. as a Colonel! Very sad to see a historic institution close. It is one of the first restaurants I sold Cobra Beer to and a loyal customer for nearly 1/3rd of a century!”
Congress MP Shashi Tharoor, too, expressed his sorrow at the closure of this iconic eatery. In a heartfelt post on X (formerly Twitter) Tharoor wrote, “As the son of one of its founders, I lament the passing of an institution that served so many Indians (and not only Indians) for nearly three-quarters of a century. For many students, journalists and travellers, it was a home away from home, offering simple and good quality Indian food at affordable prices as well as a convivial atmosphere to meet and maintain friendships.”
He also shared two images along with the post adding, “As the picture shows, I was there this summer with my sister (we are standing in front of photos of my father attending club events in the early 1950s) and am sad to realise that that was my last visit, since I will not be returning to London this year. Om Shanti!”
Since the Club is located opposite Bush House which served as the headquarters of the BBC World Service for seventy years, it was a regular haunt for journalists like me who worked there.
Ruth Hogarth, a former Bush House colleague, recalls: “During my 20 years at Bush House, across the road from the India Club, I was a regular visitor along with many World Service colleagues. I particularly loved the dosas in the unpretentious restaurant on the second floor, snatched during a break in a long night shift. Later, when I worked for King’s College London on the Strand campus,the beautiful first floor bar was our go-to place for cocktails to celebrate special occasions.”
Another BBC journalist, Mike Jervis, says: “Climbing the stairs to the India Club was like entering a different old-style world. The calm atmosphere and no frills traditional food provided a welcome dinner break from the pressures of the newsroom. But there were also other diversions like attending the launch of books by former colleagues.”
It is difficult to explain the appeal of an establishment which made little attempt to change with the times. When regular diners visited they knew exactly what was on the menu, simple South Indian fare: poppadoms served with coconut salsa and lime pickle, samosas, an assortment of bhajis, creamy chickpeas, tender lamb bhuna, butter chicken, paneer with finely chopped spinach and a choice of parathas and other breads. Prices are modest, you leave feeling full without hurting your wallet compared to newer and trendier Indian restaurants with eye-watering charges. The Marker family have been running the India Club since rescuing it from near-ruin some twenty years ago. They are proud of sticking to their roots and refusing to be intimidated by trendier restaurants sprouting around them. They were committed to preserving its authenticity and this clearly struck a chord with its customers. Sadly, they have finally been forced to succumb to the power and influence of big developers who value profit more than history, culture and tradition. With the demise of the treasured India Club a crucial part of the joint heritage of the UK and India will be lost for ever.
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Pursue Your Passion
Atikur Rahman is making an impassioned plea for more training for the curry house sector
As chef at Brick Lane’s Graam Bangla restaurant, with many years of experience working as a consultant to curry houses and having been involved with the Bangladesh Caterers Association (BCA), Atikur Rahman is undoubtedly in an excellent position to comment on the state of the curry house sector.
“One of the biggest issues for curry houses is a lack of trained chefs,” he says. “I need to organise training for chefs – if we want to save the curry industry, we must act right now. Every day, curry houses are closing. We might bring chefs from abroad, but we still have to train them as they need to learn different cooking methods. Healthy dishes and organic food with all the flavour are the new trends – you need to know the calories and ingredients you are using.”
Rahman came to the UK in 1999, when he was around 19 years old. He studied catering by working in a number of hotels, before moving to the Indian Nawab restaurant in Earls Court, where he says it was sometimes challenging to learn on the job.
“I used to work in the kitchen, and when the chef added spices, he would never show me,” he says. “I found it quite upsetting but
it made me determined to be a chef, so I started to train professionally.”
To complement his training, Rahman worked at another restaurant in Fulham Road, and this time he picked up many tips and techniques from the chef, all of which sparked his passion for cooking.
“I first learnt to cook from my mother when I was 17, and this chef showed me all the basics and more,” says Rahman. “I learnt so many things from him, to the point that I was able to open a restaurant.”
He started Exotic East in Southall with a Punjabi partner. While the other restaurants specialised in meat dishes, Exotic East became a great favourite with its vegetable dishes particularly Vegetable Haven Pumpkin, oven-baked pumpkins and other unusual dishes. He then moved to Wales, to the Tamarind in Cwmbran and then to a restaurant in Abergavenny also called Exotic East.
Festival fever
London press launch of the British Fusion Food Festival Dhaka at Canary Wharf in 2007
At this point, Rahman became involved with the British Curry Festival (which at the time was known as the British Fusion Food Festival). He took part in the event when it was hosted in Dhaka in Bangladesh in 2006, enabling him to showcase his fusion cooking style, with European dishes given an Asian twist.
“My experience in Dhaka changed my life – it was the first time I had received any exposure, and when I came back to the restaurant, we saw business almost doubling,” he said.”My confidence grew too – I was confident as a chef before, but on my return from the festival, I felt I could do much more, having met so many different chefs there, so it was an easy decision to attend the event the following year.”
At the time, in a previous interview for Curry Life, Rahman said: “ For me it is a learning experience because I will be meeting some of the top chefs of the curry world in Dhaka. I go in a spirit of humility and hope when I return to be able to produce some famous traditional dishes.”
Rahman believes the concept of the Festival – founded in 2002 to promote British curry as a brand, showcases the best of British cuisine alongside popular curry house dishes.
“Bangladeshi chefs are great cooks, particularly when it comes to preparation and processes,” he says. “They can prepare many dishes in a short time frame, under pressure, and serve 200 people for example. That’s the expertise that curry house chefs have.”
Chef Atik with other chefs at a press conference with British Fusion Food Festival organiser in Dhaka Sheraton in 2006.
Lessons learnt
Perhaps not unsurprisingly, following his success in Dhaka, Rahman set his sights on learning as much as possible. He left Exotic East for a job in London in 2009, working at Sir Terence Conran’s iconic restaurant Bluebird in the heart of Chelsea and also had stints as a personal chef. He also became involved with the Bangladesh Caterers Association, as a judge for their chef awards.
Over the years, Rahman has also built up an impressive repertoire of hundreds of recipes and Graam Bangla also served King Charles some dishes, including Hilsa fish when he visited the area in February. Having built up considerable experience with his work across many restaurants, at Curry Life events, and at the BCA, Rahman is currently involved in training chefs in Hammersmith, West London, focusing on food management.
“If you are a really good curry chef, you still need someone behind you to help push you and keep you motivated,” he says. “If I hadn’t had the opportunity to meet Curry Life for example and take part in its festival, I probably would not have left Abergavenny. You need to learn about different chefs, cuisines and skills.”
Rahman has also taken part in cookery programmes on Bangladeshi TV channels in the UK, and he’ s not just focused on curry dishes but on modern European cuisine too.
“We need to teach curry houses that it’s all about the presentation, which very often can be poor,” says Rahman. “ It’s not about how they cook or the chef but the way the food looks.”
Having been seriously ill during the pandemic, Rahman says his perspective has changed, prompting him to want to continue working to help others.
To this end, he is also heavily involved in charity work, including one organisation supporting orphaned children in Bangladesh, and another where he cooks a number of dishes free of charge, which the charity can then sell to raise funds. Cooking remains very much his passion – even when he was in the hospital, he says he spent most of the time thinking of recipes – after all, as Rahman puts it, ‘everyone loves curry.’
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